Today was my first full day in Chicago and I spent most of it in the
Art Instiute of Chicago. I was told that if there was one thing I was to see in this city, it was the Art Institute, and I must admit it did not disappoint. In fact, it knocked my socks off.
The building is big. So big, in fact, that it spans railroad tracks. The
ingenious architects used this opportunity to create a long, narrow gallery currently full of medieval weaponry, to connect the sections of the museum over the tracks.
Probably their most notable pieces fall under the American Modern classification, and I was very pleased to see Edward Hopper's
Night Hawks. It's not big painting, but it is powerful. There's a loneliness in it and a yearning for closeness that any traveller can appreciate.
The big exhibit right now is called
Cezanne to Picasso. It's about
Vullard, an art dealer who worked with many of the greats during the French Impressionist movement. Having lived in Paris and studied this work for a long time, I was very familiar with it. It's also some of the best-known art in the U.S. Even though much of it is over 100 years old, Americans still think of it as 'hip'. I have to admit it's great art, but it's also
f'ing old and I honestly prefer to see stuff I haven't seen before, but it was like visiting old friends. They are familiar, and comfortable, yet they still excite you and and make you feel good.
There was Cezanne with his sloppy, bold colors and shapes that are so stripped down. His strokes are lines and his fascination with light really inspired all the following impressionists. Matisse was well represented, particularly his
Fauve period, which I find a bit immature, but it is fun to look at all those pretty colors. Renoir was there with his soft, angelic use of color and light - faces that glow in a dream. Degas
shows his explosions of color and his passion for movement and dance. And then there is Picasso. Almost like a savior to the rest of them, he mastered all of the techniques before him only to completely strip down his work to its very essence and render the guts of the thing for everyone to see. He's like Dylan on canvas. He makes it look simple, but in fact only he could pull it off. I watched one woman walk into the Picasso room with hands spread wide open, as if to say, "Here I am. Take me." Also like Dylan, Picasso completely copied the genius of others before him. In Dylan's case it was folk singers and
bluesmen like Woody Guthrie and
Ledbelly. For Picasso it was the 'primitive' artists. Art from Africa, Oceania and Native America was such an obvious profound influence on him, sometimes it looks like he was photocopying. He tapped into an artistic tradition thousands of years old and utilized it to bring his own art beyond what all the European masters could have ever taught him.
But the two artists that really got to me this time were Van
Gogh and
Gaugin. I don't think this is a surprise to anyone, but these guys were good. They were also both kind of nuts, which probably explains some things. Van
Gogh uses colors that are so incongruous but work so well to evoke a sense that you carry with you, even if you don't want it to. You may not want to look, but you have to. You know that the feat performed in front of you is nothing less than sheer genius. They had
Starry Night over the Rhone. Dumb struck I stood there and watched how geometric force and color
collided into an effortless night-scape. His portrait of Mme
Roulin was haunting and intimate at the same time. She reminded me so much of my father's mother - strong hands and powerful eyes.
More than the rest, I love
Gaugin for the unabashed pleasure he derives from studying the human form. There is a sensuality that some might call erotic, but I think of it more innocently. His figures are bold, his colors are deep and images are pure. It helps that many of his scenes involve beautiful Tahitian women. But hey, who am I to judge?
The contemporary stuff was a bit weak. I guess you can't have it all. Oh! The coolest thing, though, was in the kids' gallery. They had a "Touch Gallery" where marble and bronze busts of
real statues were secured to tables and kids could actually touch them. One kid spent like a minute trying to pick this one statue's nose. It was great! How often are you told in museums, "Don't touch!" They could touch all they wanted. Heck I even copped a feel.